Frequently Asked Questions

Published national guides put new asphalt driveways at roughly $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) and $7 to $15 per square foot (Angi). Removing an old driveway first runs about $8 to $15 per square foot, according to Angi. Northern Virginia labor, tight access and any curb work can push a job toward the upper end. The written estimate is the price.

Treat it with caution. Offers like that are usually a starting price for a thin layer of asphalt, with the real cost added once work begins. Ask for a written quote that states the base depth, the compacted asphalt thickness and the total price before anyone starts.

If widening the driveway means widening the curb cut, yes. The City's T&ES guidelines route new curb cuts and widenings of 4 feet or more through a curb cut application, and smaller widenings through a separate form. Paving that stays on your side of the sidewalk generally does not need a right-of-way permit.

Resurface when the surface is worn but the driveway is still firm and drains well. Replace when there is alligator cracking, sinking, recurring potholes or water under the surface. We check the base before recommending either.

Cost guides put asphalt driveway life at 15 to 30 years. A deep base, good drainage and regular sealing and crack filling push it toward the long end.

Usually after a few days, longer in hot weather. Avoid turning the steering wheel while stopped and keep jacks and kickstands off for the first weeks. Wait 3 to 6 months before the first sealcoat.

Yes. Steep driveways need careful compaction from the bottom up and a plan for where water goes at the street and at the garage. We look at both during the estimate.

Most residential driveways take one to two days: removal and base work, then paving. Steep or larger driveways, or extra base repair, can add a day. Rain moves the paving day.

Asphalt costs less up front (HomeGuide: $5 to $12 or more per square foot, against $6 to $15 for concrete) and is easier to repair. Concrete lasts longer, about 30 to 40 years against 15 to 30, but cracks and joints are harder to fix. In a historic district, also check what fits the property.

Often yes. If the apron and curb are in good shape, we tie the new asphalt into them and leave the right-of-way untouched.

Only briefly while trucks unload. We stage material to keep the street and sidewalk usable and clean up the same day.

Usually about 1.5 to 2 inches, but we mill or cut the edges at the garage, walks and curb so it meets them flush.

It can be done over a stable slab, but joints and cracks tend to show through. Removing the concrete is often the better long-term choice.

Partly. We can adjust slope somewhat with the new layer, but serious drainage problems are better fixed with base work or replacement.

On a sound base with good drainage, many years. On a failing base, cracks can return within a year or two, which is why we check first.

Not always. Milling at edges is usually needed on driveways; full milling is more common on lots with curbs and inlets.

Yes. We work in sections and give management a schedule so residents can move cars ahead of time.

HomeAdvisor suggests every 2 to 5 years depending on traffic and exposure, with cracks sealed first.

Yes. We provide a written scope by area so boards can approve and budget phases.

Usually the same day or the next once it has cooled, longer for heavy trucks and in hot weather.

Yes. We write a phased plan with costs by year so the budget stays predictable.

Because the soft or wet material under it was never removed. A saw-cut repair that digs to firm ground fixes the cause.

It is a temporary fill, useful in winter. For a lasting repair, the area should be cut out and rebuilt with hot-mix.

New asphalt is darker at first. A sealcoat over the whole driveway after the patch cures evens the color.

Yes, and if the work reaches the curb or sidewalk we confirm the City or VDOT permit requirements first.

Yes. Repairs and crack filling come first, then the sealcoat.

Every few years, once the surface has faded and stone is showing. HomeGuide's range is 2 to 10 years by product and climate.

No. Cracks are filled first, then sealed over.

Usually 12 to 72 hours depending on temperature, humidity and shade.

We hand-edge along brick and concrete and mask where needed to keep sealer off.

When it has faded to gray, small stones are loosening and water soaks in instead of beading.

According to the Department of Justice, restriping triggers the 2010 ADA Standards for accessible parking, so the layout should meet them when the lines are repainted.

A small lot is often done in a few hours. Paint usually dries quickly, and we keep sections closed until it does.

Yes. We reproduce numbering and stencils for assigned and visitor spaces.

If the asphalt is faded, sealing first gives the new lines a clean background. The sealer must cure before painting.

Busy lots often need a light restripe every year or two; quieter lots can go longer.